Yosemite Half Dome
I'm thrilled to share that just last week, I successfully reached the peak of Yosemite’s Half Dome ! I believe this hike stands among the most exhilarating and challenging in the United States, comparable to trails like Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park and the rim-to-rim trek across the Grand Canyon. Covering a distance of 16.4 miles with an elevation gain of 4,800 feet, it's definitely not meant for those who are easily intimidated. Additionally, it’s not a spur-of-the-moment decision since permits for the final segment are limited to just 300 each day, making it tricky to secure one.
I tackled this adventurous climb on September 10. For the first half of the journey, I was accompanied by Mrs. Wizard. The air quality that day was severely affected by smoke from wildfires across California, including a fire near another area of Yosemite. The photo shown below was captured from the valley's floor. Without a permit in hand, I hoped that many of the permitted hikers might skip the climb due to the hazardous smoke. Occasionally, Rangers allow individuals to climb without permits if they anticipate not reaching the daily limit.

For those keen on acquiring a permit, 225 out of the total 300 are allocated through a 'pre-season' lottery that takes place in March. The remaining permits are distributed via a 'daily lottery' held two days before the desired climbing day. Based on my own attempts, I found the odds of winning a daily permit to be quite low; I've been unsuccessful in all three tries. Additionally, securing a campsite or accommodation within Yosemite can be fiercely competitive, so I highly recommend planning your visit at least six months ahead of time.
At the start of the trail, there was a Ranger advising against hiking due to the smoky conditions, although he made it clear it wasn't prohibited. He elaborated on the risks associated with smoke inhalation and instructed anyone experiencing symptoms to descend immediately. Once he finished his guidance, I inquired about the possibility of attempting the dome section at the end without a permit. He mumbled uncertainly, mentioning that many folks had not shown up the previous day and indicated that he would likely permit it, but he couldn't guarantee what the Ranger at the dome would decide. He also mentioned they had two permits available. When I asked for one, he suggested I could have it but didn't provide any documentation or take my name.
The journey begins at the Happy Isles Bridge , which also serves as the northern starting point of the John Muir Trail, another ambitious hike on my personal list. The initial stretch is known as the Mist Trail and is arguably the most frequented hike in Yosemite. It runs alongside the roaring Merced River and passes two of the park's notable waterfalls—Vernal and Nevada. It's worth noting that by September, waterfall flows are significantly diminished compared to their spring glory, which explains why my photos of the falls may not be as captivating as those taken in May.
I had hiked the first segment of this trail, up to the Vernal Falls bridge , twice over the past decade; it's generally filled with families, children darting around, and older hikers creating traffic jams. However, on this particular morning, I encountered only one person—a trail runner—in the first mile. The relative emptiness of the trail could be attributed to our early start at around 6:00 AM, the park's limited capacity due to the pandemic, and the lingering smoke. It felt surreal to experience such natural beauty without the usual throngs of visitors—akin to having Disneyland all to yourself. The image below features the first waterfall along the path, Vernal Falls:

While there are beautiful pools at the top of Vernal Falls that seem ideal for cooling off, they're misleading. People have fallen victim to the current and been swept over the edge. Most hikers don't progress beyond Vernal Falls, resulting in a less crowded but more rugged experience on the trail. The next highlight is Nevada Falls. Unfortunately, it seems I forgot to capture a new photo of it for you, so here’s one from 2015, which better showcases the stunning sky:

Upon reaching the summit of Nevada Falls, the trail levels out for a bit as it meanders through the tranquil Upper Yosemite Valley . This area resembles a miniature version of the Lower Yosemite Valley, featuring the same Merced River flowing through it and being flanked by majestic granite cliffs. However, after this calm section, it's back to climbing through the forest. Here’s a snapshot of a typical stretch of the trail. It was around this spot that a bobcat unexpectedly crossed my path. Sadly, it moved too quickly for me to retrieve my camera in time:

At this juncture, I found myself venturing farther along the trail than I had previously, feeling a mix of curiosity and apprehension about what lay ahead. This segment is quite lengthy as it makes its way up to the base of Half Dome . As I navigated this stretch, I mentally prepared for the conversation I would have with the Ranger stationed at the base, who checks for permits. I hoped that a combination of reason and pleading might persuade him to let me through.
Eventually, I arrived at the base of what is referred to as the subdome—a smaller structure located behind Half Dome. Normally, this is where a Ranger would check the necessary permits. To my surprise, there wasn't anyone around at that moment. A sign indicated that climbing Half Dome without a permit carries a fine of $280. I reassured myself that I had an invisible permit handed to me at the beginning of the hike.

The subdome primarily consists of steps etched into the granite. Many middle-aged hikers were seen huffing and puffing their way up. One gentleman mentioned that he had camped in the Upper Yosemite Valley, which seems wise for anyone not keen on tackling 16.4 miles in a single push.
The image below illustrates a typical portion of this trail segment:

Upon reaching the top of the subdome, the path descends slightly, and then you're faced directly with Half Dome. This segment of the hike traverses a vast expanse of slippery granite, especially when a thin layer of ash covers it. The only way to ascend safely is by gripping the cables installed to assist hikers.
From the photographs I’ve seen, this section usually resembles Los Angeles’ 405 freeway at rush hour, with most climbers arriving around the same time, approximately between 10 AM and 2 PM. However, due to the smoke on this day, only about 10-20 individuals were on this part of the trail at any single moment.


Even without the best gloves and footwear, I decided to climb up anyway. The surface was quite slippery! Fortunately, there were wooden boards placed between each set of posts supporting the cables. I moved cautiously from board to board, pausing to catch my breath at each step. My advice for anyone feeling anxious at this point, which it was clear others were, is to just go for it. Concentrate on the thrill and excitement of taking on the challenge, rather than focusing on the number of past fatalities on Half Dome itself. https://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/half-dome/half-dome.htm I managed to reach the top without any mishaps. Ordinarily, at this point, one would be greeted with breathtaking vistas of the Lower Yosemite Valley. Unfortunately, on this smoky day, my reward was clouded views, as evident from the white skies in my summit photo:
While descending, I truly regretted not having appropriate gloves. The ones I had were lightweight skiing gloves. Ideally, rubber industrial gloves are the best choice, with leather being a solid second. Avoid anything with a smooth surface like mine. In terms of footwear, having shoes with a good rubber sole is crucial—not the running shoes I wore. I also observed that about one in every four climbers secured themselves to the cables using a carabiner, tethered to their body through thin ropes or interconnecting slings.

Of course, I lived to recount this adventure. While heading back down, I was advised by other climbers to descend backward, which I plan to try during my next excursion. The trek back down was without incident. Overall, the climb took about nine hours. I would have loved to celebrate with a hearty meal upon returning, but unfortunately, due to pandemic regulations, only take-out was available.
To sum it up, while I am thrilled to have crossed Half Dome off my bucket list, I look forward to doing it again on a day with clear skies, free from pandemic restrictions. I might even consider entering the March 2021 lottery for a climb in May when the waterfalls are at their most vibrant before the summer tourist wave hits in June.
In next week’s newsletter, I intend to share more about my experiences during my recent trip to Yosemite.
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Helpful Links:
Wikipedia entry on Half Dome https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Half_Dome
Half Dome permits https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm
The Half Dome hike https://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/half-dome/half-dome.htm
More on Yosemite waterfalls https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/waterfalls.htm