Oktoberfest

One of the experiences I recently checked off my bucket list was visiting Oktoberfest in Germany. While various cities hold celebrations, it is widely regarded that only the festivities in Munich, during the designated event dates, count as 'official'. Earlier this month, I finally made it to this grand event as part of a three-week journey through France, Monaco, and Germany.

Let’s delve into the origins of Oktoberfest: it began in 1810 to commemorate the marriage of future King Ludwig I and Therese of Saxe-Hildurghausen. According to a tour guide I met in Munich, the initial celebration lasted for days, with revelers reluctant to leave. Eventually, an arrangement was reached, allowing these enthusiastic participants to return annually to honor the wedding anniversary, with the stipulation that the festivities would last no more than three weeks. This practice has continued throughout the years, although some celebrations were skipped due to circumstances like wars and pandemics.

Oktoberfest is typically celebrated over a period of 16 to 18 days. In 2022, it ran from September 17 to October 3. Interestingly, most of the festival fun actually happens in September. The event is held in a vast area in central Munich that resembles a huge parking lot, transforming into a festive space that requires significant effort to erect 14 large structures, affectionately known as ‘tents’, along with giant carnival rides that impressively mimic permanent installations.

Famous German beer brands sponsor the different tents, and entry is complimentary. In Bavaria, the legal drinking age for beer and wine is 16. Inside each tent, you'll find a band platform at the center surrounded by rows of picnic tables, with around half of them reserved. I’ve heard that making a reservation can be quite expensive and should be done well in advance, often by large companies. The remaining tables are available on a first-come, first-served basis, but by mid-afternoon, finding a seat can be quite challenging. Unlike the Hofbrauhaus in Las Vegas, which closely resembles the one in Munich, there aren’t staff members to assist you with seating. Sometimes, the tents reach full capacity, and a queue forms outside. Attendants will allow new guests in as others exit.

It seems like a prerequisite for staff here is the ability to hold numerous beer steins at once. There are no options for smaller mugs. Beer continues to flow, one stein at a time, until you place a coaster on top of your drink to signal that you’ve had enough. Oktoberfest Tours

Once you're seated, the service is surprisingly efficient despite the sheer number of guests to be attended to. As previously mentioned, each tent is affiliated with a specific brewery, like Lowenbrau, and they exclusively serve their Oktoberfest beer, which I find to be quite mild and low in alcohol. Consequently, most guests tend to consume multiple liters. I personally managed to drink three liters over four hours—something I typically wouldn’t do—and left only slightly tipsy. There is also an extensive food menu available. The standout dish, from what I've gathered, is a half-roasted chicken, closely followed by fried pork knuckles. Between the two, I would definitely suggest trying the chicken.

Most of the bands play a lively mix of popular music in both English and German. They often have larger ensembles, with around a dozen musicians. I had expected to hear mostly traditional German oom-pah music, but my assumption was quickly overturned. I’m not well-versed in current German music, but I recognized many popular English songs, including classics like 'It's Raining Men', 'Sweet Caroline', 'Take Me Home, Country Roads', 'New York, New York', and a selection of hits from ABBA.

It caught my eye that at least half of the attendees sported traditional Bavarian attire, which you likely wouldn't see in everyday settings. Women often braid their hair, while men typically wear hats adorned with feathers from birds they’ve hunted.

I snapped this photo while looking down Beethovenstrasse, which is just one among several streets within the fairgrounds.

In addition to the tents, there are numerous amusement rides, carnival games, haunted houses, and food stalls. Gingerbread hearts and pretzels are especially sought after. I managed to win some money playing games with my friend Stephen, particularly in shooting and tossing games. I walked away with plastic roses and stuffed animals, which I gladly gifted to the waitstaff.

I kicked off my Oktoberfest experience on September 30, accompanied by my kind friend Stephen, who traveled from Stuttgart to join me. Neuschwanstein Castle , which I wrote about in the October 13, 2022 newsletter.

He had done his homework and brought me to a tent that offered the most genuine German music. After a few rounds of carnival games, we arrived at his carefully chosen beer tent around 1:00 PM, and it was still easy to find a table. A little while later, another group joined us. Along with the food, drinks, and music, we found humor in making bets on silly things like how long it would take for a worker to clear a table and retrieve a coin.

Here’s a snapshot from my first day at Oktoberfest. Unfortunately, I later left my hat there, never to be recovered.

In the following three days, I attempted to conquer the highest mountain in Germany, which I might write about in an upcoming newsletter. Zugspitze I returned on October 3, the closing day of Oktoberfest. This time, I was flying solo and arrived around 4 PM, only to find the place packed. I think I ventured into every tent, searching for a place to sit, but had no luck. If I had been a bit more assertive, I’m sure I could have squeezed in somewhere, but my German is rather poor, and I’m not one to push my way in. Nonetheless, I was able to record some videos of the bands that I later uploaded.

At approximately 6:30 PM, I found myself in yet another tent and made my way to the second floor, where my view of the band was less than ideal. To my surprise, I spotted a table with just three Italian men who kindly invited me to join them. One of them spoke decent Spanish, which allowed us to have a simple but enjoyable conversation. Shortly after, two German college students joined us. They were very sociable and spoke good English. I had a fantastic time relishing the final hours of Oktoberfest in their company. Every day, alcohol service ends at 9:30 PM, and the tents close at 10:30 PM. I enjoyed their company so much that they accepted my invitation to dinner on my last night in Germany, just two days later. I hope they don’t mind me sharing this slightly blurry picture of us. YouTube.

To conclude, here are some photos of the brochure in English, providing additional information and guidelines about the festival.

In summary, my time at Oktoberfest was absolutely delightful, and I felt proud to have experienced it. I would welcome the opportunity to return, not just for Oktoberfest, but because I genuinely love Munich and Bavaria in general. I've visited northern Germany a couple of times, but I find Bavaria to be much more enjoyable and embodying the classic image of Germany.

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Written by: Michael Shackleford