Neuschwanstein Castle

Hello, dear readers of my newsletter! I'm back from an incredible three-week journey through Europe, mainly in France, but I also visited beautiful Monaco and Munich. I trust you found my previous four newsletters about Burning Man enjoyable, which I prepared in advance before my trip.

I have a wealth of information to share regarding my trip to Europe. Additionally, I'm planning to summarize my Burning Man experience and I still owe you the sixth installment of my series on the High Sierra Trail. So, there will be no shortage of material to write about for the foreseeable future.

Let me kick things off with my experience at Neuschwanstein Castle. You might not be familiar with the name, but chances are, you've encountered its images, puzzles, or model replicas at some point. Below you can see a photo of it from Wikipedia.

If you aren't particularly interested in castles, but this one rings a bell, you may be thinking of Disney's Sleeping Beauty Castle. Below is an image of the version located in Disneyland, California, which borrowed inspiration from the design of Neuschwanstein.

Nestled about two hours south of Munich, Germany, Neuschwanstein Castle is situated in a secluded, wooded area close to the Austrian border. There are several other charming castles in the vicinity that are often included in tours with Neuschwanstein. If you decide to visit, allocate a full day to truly enjoy the experience.

Instead of diving deep into the castle's history and the story of King Ludwig II of Bavaria, the monarch for whom it was constructed (one of four castles he built), I'll refrain from rehashing information from Wikipedia (please check the link above), which would be redundant.

A good friend of mine, Stefen, made the trip from Stuttgart to guide my wife and me through the castle and join us for Oktoberfest (I'll provide more details about that in an upcoming newsletter). He picked us up around noon with plans to show us Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau (another of Ludwig's castles), and the lake where King Ludwig II's body was discovered.

Our first destination was Lake Starnberg, the site where the king's body and that of his physician were discovered just off the shore. The circumstances surrounding his death remain a topic of speculation and debate. It certainly seems like something sinister happened. I suspect that the doctor may have met a similar fate, as silence is often a requirement in such situations. For further information, refer to the section titled 'death' in the Wikipedia article. King Ludwig .

Next, we were headed to King Ludwig’s castle at Linderhof. We had pre-booked tickets for guided tours of both Linderhof and Neuschwanstein at specific times. These tickets are highly sought after and were purchased at least a month ahead of time. Unfortunately, we took longer than anticipated to reach Lake Starnberg due to an unexpected detour that required additional hiking. This forced us to make a choice between the two tours, ultimately opting for the more famous Neuschwanstein.

Perched atop a mountain, Neuschwanstein Castle embodies the classic castle aesthetic. Efforts have been made to keep surrounding areas clear of development, ensuring visitors can enjoy unobstructed views of the castle.

However, reaching the castle involves a substantial uphill trek. At the base, you’ll find various Bavarian eateries and quaint lodgings. The path to the castle consists of a well-maintained road used by horse-drawn carriages (aids powered by batteries) in addition to hiking trails. Given our time constraints, we decided to stick to the road.

One of the castle's charms is its setting amidst lush trees and towering mountains, but this also makes capturing a good photograph of it somewhat challenging. From what I know, the best vantage point is a bridge located about half a mile from the castle. For reference, the German term for bridge is brücke. In some YouTube videos, this bridge is shown teeming with tourists, sometimes requiring waits just to access it. Other videos depict it closed for repairs. Thankfully, on a rainy day, September 29, 2022, we strolled directly onto the bridge without any line, enabling us to take clear photos. While there were other visitors, the space was accommodating. If you visit on a sunny summer day, you might not have such luck.

As is often the case, the pictures I snapped of my wife turned out better than her shots of me. To provide an example of a distant view of the castle, I've included this image of her below. If you're on-site, you'll need to zoom in to make the castle appear as grand as it looks here.

I recommend allowing an additional hour for the round trip between the bridge and the castle. This estimate does not consider potential waiting times, which could be significant during peak tourist seasons.

As I mentioned, our tickets were for an English-speaking tour at a specific time. Stefen indicated that there are limited English tours available. I suspect that if you have to join a German tour, you would manage just fine; however, the quality of the English tour was rather underwhelming, as it felt very scripted and lacking in excitement.

Our tour was supposed to commence in a small courtyard located behind the castle gate. However, the entrance to this courtyard was shut with no signs directing visitors. Personally, I typically adhere to markers indicating restricted access, but in this case, nothing stopped me, so I went ahead and opened the door. I reasoned that if access were truly forbidden, they would have locked it or at least put up signs in German stating 'do not enter'.

Unfazed, the three of us entered the courtyard behind the door, mingling with around 40 other tourists waiting for their respective tour times. Suddenly, a large guard who resembled Drago from Rocky IV appeared and began barking orders at us in German. He personified every stereotype of a German soldier or prison guard from World War II. Luckily, Stefen, being a native German speaker, calmly pointed out the lack of signs or locks, effectively outsmarting the guard. He inquired whether we had valid tickets, likely hoping for an excuse to toss us out. Naturally, Stefen promptly produced our three valid tickets, wrapping up the incident on a positive note.

Afterward, we spent around 15 minutes in the courtyard snapping photos. I took one of myself, which you can see below. The system for organizing tours and checking tickets was impressively efficient, showcasing German operational excellence. Aside from the overbearing guard, I didn’t notice any staff around.

At the tour's commencement, we were firmly instructed that photography inside the castle was prohibited. Consequently, I must apologize for the lack of interior photographs. Listening devices were distributed, and we finally met our tour guide. He spoke softly into a microphone, while the listening devices amplified his voice. I had not encountered this method before, but I later observed it being used in other castles and museums throughout Germany.

The tour led us through several exquisitely decorated rooms and corridors, covering an estimated 10% of the castle's interior. I have to say, these were some of the most significant spaces, aligning with the beauty I anticipated based on the castle's exterior. Unfortunately, the guided commentary felt quite rehearsed, devoid of interesting anecdotes or engaging stories. It could be a cultural preference, but I personally favor tour guides who can creatively improvise and make the experience both enjoyable and informative. I’d like to think I’d be a great tour guide myself. Who knows, I might just end up doing that in my later years to remain active and share my passion for knowledge.

As is often the case, the tour concluded in a gift shop with inflated prices, bringing the experience to an abrupt end. The tickets also included access to a museum near the parking area, which we managed to visit beforehand.

Overall, I had a delightful day at Neuschwanstein and felt grateful for the experience. A big thank you to Stefen for arranging every aspect and for being an excellent chauffeur and guide throughout the day. He's definitely scored major points with me for this, points he can redeem for a personalized tour of the Grand Canyon next year.

I understand that not everyone has a friend in southern Germany to organize a private tour. The good news is that Neuschwanstein is a prominent tourist destination with numerous tour operators offering visits to it and other nearby castles. While I haven't personally taken one of these tours, I would recommend considering that option. I've heard you can use a train and bus combination from Munich to reach Neuschwanstein, which may be a more economical choice and provide greater flexibility. If you go this route, ensure you secure your castle tour tickets well in advance. Personally, I wouldn't fret over figuring out the logistics and would prefer to rely on a professional guide instead.

Speaking of professional guides, I later enjoyed a biking tour of Munich with this company. Our guide, Patrick, did an excellent job leading our large group to various notable and enjoyable locations throughout Munich. This tour was organized by an American and carried an American flair—fun, entertaining, and informative. I wholeheartedly recommend their services, especially the bike tour in Munich. Additionally, they offer trips to Neuschwanstein via bus, with some tours including a biking experience in the castle area, which I believe is worth the extra cost. Mike’s Bike Tours That's all I have to share regarding Neuschwanstein Castle. I hope it inspires you to visit if you ever find yourself in Bavaria, and that you gleaned something new from my account, regardless.

Until next week, may fortune always be on your side.

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Written by: Michael Shackleford