Lake Powell Adventure #2

You might remember my narrative about my initial Lake Powell journey back in 2019:

The Sorcerer’s Lake Powell Journey - Chapter 1

The Sorcerer’s Lake Powell Journey - Chapter 2

I had such a great time on that first trip that as soon as it finished, we began to plan another adventure. This second outing was arranged for late March 2020, but just a week prior, we received news that the marina was closing due to Covid, leading to the indefinite cancellation of all houseboat excursions.

Eventually, we rescheduled for almost the same trip from May 31 to June 4, 2021, departing from Wahweap Marina located near Page, Arizona. Joining me for this escapade were my wife, our two daughters, and my mother. The first adventure launched from Bullfrog, Utah, so this time we would explore an entirely different segment of the lake.

The night before we set sail on the houseboat, we stayed at a hotel in Page, where we strolled around the Glen Canyon Dam and clambered on some nearby rocks. The area also features attractions like the Hanging Gardens, Horseshoe Bend, and Antelope Canyon, but we simply ran out of time to see them all.

The following morning, we arrived at Wahweap Marina to kick off our adventure. The check-in process was smooth and organized. They have staff with golf carts who transport luggage carts, easing the burden of moving our gear from the parking lot to the boat. Remember to show appreciation by tipping the porters.

I had been warned by several people that the lake was experiencing extremely low water levels. A young man who provided me with instructions on operating the boat opened a map of the lake and marked various areas, indicating that I was prohibited from accessing them. This included the northern route around Antelope Island and many side canyons – a stark contrast to my previous trip where I had no such limitations.

Our journey commenced with some noticeable bumps. The map below illustrates Wahweap Marina in the upper left, surrounded by numerous boats. The houseboat rentals are stationed at the northern end on the Utah side. Although I had intentions to navigate the northern route around Antelope Island, it was closed due to the low water levels. As a result, I was forced to take a narrow, congested route to the south of Antelope Island just to find something worth exploring. That particular stretch south of Antelope Marina proved to be quite turbulent, and it felt like a wind tunnel both going to and returning.

Along this course lies a side canyon named Antelope Canyon , a well-known destination within Lake Powell that's traditionally only accessible by kayak or small boats. While foot access to the southern part of the canyon is possible, obtaining a permit can be quite challenging. Regrettably for us, there was no place to moor the houseboat since the canyon walls were too steep. I could only watch enviously as numerous kayakers happily made their way there from Antelope Point Marina. This adventure has moved higher up on my bucket list.

At this stage, we faced the decision of where to anchor the houseboat for our first night. The main channel, to be honest, can be rather dull, particularly the southern segment of Lake Powell. The most scenic sights are located within the side canyons. The first possible side canyon suitable for houseboat anchorage was Navajo Canyon . It presents a lengthy, winding passage that looked promising for exploration. This opportunity wouldn’t present itself again for quite some time if I missed it.

Before proceeding, let me clarify how houseboating operates. The vessels come equipped with four anchors. The expectation is to locate a sandy beach, bury each anchor at least two feet deep in the sand, and secure them to the boat using long ropes. This can be tricky in Lake Powell due to the scarcity of sandy beaches. During my last visit, I'll admit I parked in areas lacking sand and concealed the anchors among rocks. Thankfully, that worked out well since there wasn't much wind.

This time around, I ventured about halfway down Navajo Canyon without success in finding a good spot to dock the boat. Just after one of the many twists in the canyon, we finally stumbled upon a stunning, expansive sandy beach. The catch, however, was that it was Memorial Day, meaning there wasn’t enough space for another houseboat. An experienced captain with a diligent crew could have anchored here, but in our case, my wife struggled to keep the boat steady while I attempted to set the anchors, leading us to abandon the effort and proceed deeper into the canyon.

Continuing a mile further down Navajo Canyon, we encountered a rocky beach. While not ideal, we had parked in worse places before, so I decided to make do with it. There was hardly any sand available, so I buried the anchors amidst piles of rocks, just like I did on my first trip. There was hardly a breeze, so I didn’t have much cause for concern.

Later, around 10 PM, a sudden gust of strong wind enveloped us. I felt it pushing the houseboat back and forth, and the gangplank, which I had forgotten to secure in the boat for the night, began banging against the rocks. Concerned about potential damage, I jumped out into the night, armed with a flashlight, to push it back inside.

I quickly shoved the gangplank back and prepared to leap back into the boat. Just at that moment, a fierce wind swept down the canyon, sending sand flying into my eyes. When I finally managed to open them, I saw the houseboat had already lost two anchors on one side and was drifting away rapidly. My makeshift rock anchors on the other side proved to be inadequate against a 20,000-pound houseboat being propelled by powerful winds. The rocks did little to slow it down, and the current was too swift for me to run and leap back aboard. I stood helplessly on the shore, watching the situation unfold.

Luckily, I had my three kayaks on the shore. In fact, there were only two since one was pushed into the water by an anchor that the boat had pulled away. Instinctively, I climbed into one of them and paddled furiously to catch up with the drifting houseboat. Fortunately, it didn't take long, as the houseboat's struggle with four heavy anchors in the water slowed its progress. I reached the houseboat somewhere in the canyon and managed to scramble out of the kayak and aboard.

Now, what should I do? The pressing question was whether to start the engines to regain control. A significant reason to refrain was that the boat was dragging four anchors still clinging to ropes. If one became ensnared in the engine's propeller, it would disable that engine and require rescue the next morning. Fortunately, as the wind calmed, the houseboat floated somewhere between both shores. It was tricky to pinpoint our exact location since the moon wouldn't rise for another three hours. I could only estimate our whereabouts with a GPS I was fortunate enough to bring along, which was not entirely accurate due to the lake's low levels distorting its readings.

The GPS tracked my movement, indicating the boat remained in roughly the same area. I thought it was a safe time to attempt to retrieve the anchors, but all four were stuck fast. I could raise a couple of them slightly, but eventually, they reached a point where they were snagged on something. That was somewhat reassuring, as it suggested they would likely keep us from crashing into anything.

After drifting for several hours without significant movement, I felt it was now safe enough to catch some sleep, which I did sprawled on the floor next to the steering wheel. My sleep was abruptly interrupted around 4 AM by a jarring thud. The half-moon had recently risen, and I could see that the boat had started drifting again, causing it to bump against the canyon wall. Thankfully, the wind wasn't too strong, and the boat merely brushed against the cliff.

On the bright side, I managed to pull two of the anchors back into the boat. The other two I could only partially lift before they snagged again. Still worried that the ropes would entangle the propeller if I turned on the engine, I decided the best course was to remain still, given that the bumping against the cliff wasn’t too severe. I had purchased insurance covering up to $50,000 in damages to the boat, which somewhat encouraged me to let nature take its course.

By about 6 AM, daylight broke, and the boat had drifted back to the center of the canyon. I attempted to pull up the remaining two anchors still tied to the boat and was successful this time! With all four anchors finally secured back on board, we were ready to stop drifting aimlessly and activate the engines, which we proceeded to do.

At this juncture, my plan was to pass the time until other boats departed from a prime beach spot in the morning. So, we set off on a leisurely cruise as far down Navajo Canyon as the houseboat would allow before turning around. By 10 AM, we returned to the lovely beach and, as I had hoped, a few other houseboats had vacated, leaving a nice open space for us. We successfully anchored there without any issues, enabling us to finally relax and breathe easy.

The remainder of our trip was filled with all the delightful activities typical of houseboating at Lake Powell – kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, fishing, swimming, cliff diving, hiking, enjoying drinks, and playing games. After all the excitement of reaching that beach spot, we decided to make it our base for the duration of the trip.

When I returned the boat, they pointed out that one of the propellers was damaged. I can’t say for certain that the propellers were in bad shape when I took the boat, as they inspected them before I left and confirmed they were fine. They also informed me that the optional insurance I purchased wouldn’t cover any damage to the propellers. Given that the boat bumped against cliffs on the first night, I suspect the damage occurred just before I returned the boat. I observed a spot marked by a buoy where the water was really shallow, only a few feet deep, and I heard a grinding noise. I thought I had maneuvered the boat far enough from the buoy, but it seems that wasn't the case. As a result, I anticipate an extra charge of around $200 on my credit card for this issue.

Here are some random photos taken during our trip.

To wrap things up, I've already started planning for Lake Powell Adventure #3. I'm considering going in early fall 2023. Hopefully, the water levels will be better by then, but that might only happen when we come to terms with the fact that we can't continue consuming water at the current rate in the southwest. Unfortunately, I’m not expecting action to be taken until the situation escalates to a crisis point.

Written by: Michael Shackleford