Camino de Santiago – Part 15

September 18, 2024, was a significant milestone as I completed my journey on the Camino. The day commenced in Arzúa, located approximately 25 miles east of Santiago. I anticipated an uncomplicated day which would allow me to reach the majestic Santiago Cathedral by noon. The landscape was gently undulating, and the skies were mostly overcast.

As is my habit, I woke up an hour before dawn. Just across the street, I discovered a quaint café that offered coffee and delicious breakfast pastries. I arrived at a perfect time, as shortly thereafter, several fellow pilgrims entered the same establishment, creating a line. I observed that Europeans appear to be far less troubled by waiting in slow-moving lines compared to Americans, especially in this instance.

After refueling with my meal and caffeine, I packed my belongings one last time and set off. The initial part of my ride was quite enjoyable since I started earlier than most pilgrims. However, by around 9 AM, the trail became excessively crowded. I wondered where all these people had come from. In a previous entry in my journey, I mentioned that many pilgrims begin their trek from Sarria, which is 100 kilometers from Santiago. Yet, the number of people I encountered that day was significantly greater than what I experienced the day before, which was still beyond Sarria. Could it be that some individuals began their pilgrimage in or near Arzúa, disregarding the 100-kilometer requirement for certification? I couldn't say for sure.

The congestion on the Camino was such that I found myself walking my bike for much of the time. The atmosphere had shifted; it no longer felt like a spiritual quest but resembled more of a large-scale athletic event, akin to a marathon walk. Fortunately, this section of the Camino was pleasant, primarily winding through forests along spacious dirt trails.

After battling through the throngs of pilgrims for about two hours, I opted to veer off the main Camino path and take side roads leading to Santiago. This decision proved to be wise, as I was able to travel more swiftly and avoid being a nuisance to the many pilgrims on foot.

In the preceding days, I had sensed that the end of my journey was approaching. The first indication came when I reached the edges of the Santiago airport. The road I chose ran parallel to the airport's perimeter. After passing the airport, I encountered familiar airport businesses and storage facilities, and eventually I moved through predominantly residential areas outside the city's core. After this detour, I rejoined the Camino along with the congregating sea of pilgrims. For roughly the next hour, the Camino stretched along a bustling main road.

In my experience traveling through various large cities in France and Spain, I've noted that most of them feature a historic district largely free of automobiles. This thoughtful approach to urban development is something I wholeheartedly support. Santiago was no different. The final stretch of the Camino led me through a series of twisting narrow streets that meandered towards the Cathedral. I ended up walking my bike for the remainder of the journey since the roads were tight and teeming with a mix of pilgrims and tourists. Despite being so close to my destination, the usual clear markers guiding the way on the Camino seemed oddly absent. Frequently, clusters of pilgrims found themselves puzzled at intersections, unsure of which direction to take. In those moments, a worn and weary long-distance pilgrim would often appear, confidently navigating the correct path, leading the others behind.

As I approached my goal, the crowds intensified and the shops became increasingly oriented towards tourism. Then, out of nowhere, the unmistakable sound of bagpipes filled the air. At that moment, a hush fell over the crowd as we all followed the irresistible call of the music. A few more turns brought us to the stone wall of the Cathedral, although we had yet to reach the principal square where the Camino officially concludes. Soon, we found ourselves at a staircase leading to an archway beneath part of the Cathedral. Inside that archway stood the musician skillfully playing the bagpipes, and the acoustics made the sound resonate powerfully. I decided to pass through quickly since the passage was quite congested, and I feared my bicycle would obstruct others if I lingered to enjoy the performance or to reflect on the final steps of my adventure.

Taking a left turn after exiting the bagpiper's passage led me directly into the main square that marks the culmination of the Camino. This area was brimming with pilgrims. Some were joyfully celebrating and capturing memories with photographs, while others sat quietly, engrossed in their thoughts, and some even shed tears. The scene was a vibrant tapestry of emotions.

In my case, I made my way towards the back of the square, allowing me to observe the festivities while keeping out of the way of the bustling crowd. I sat for a while, feeling uncertain about what emotions to process. It was difficult to comprehend that my journey had finally come to an end. For the past 15 days, my singular objective had been to reach Santiago, and now it felt surreal to no longer see the familiar scallop shells or directional signs guiding my way like the Star of Bethlehem. If I had to articulate my feelings, I would say that primarily, I felt a deep sadness that this adventure was concluding. Following that would be a sense of confusion – an uncertainty about what to do with myself next. Finally, a feeling of pride in my achievement existed, but it was overshadowed by the prevailing sadness and sense of emptiness.

After sitting quietly for about 15 minutes, someone approached me and asked if I had just completed the Camino. I confirmed that I had. The woman had finished her journey the day prior and seemed to be waiting for a friend who was a day behind her. She graciously offered to take some photos of me. I candidly expressed my uncertainty about my next steps. I guessed it was too early to check into my accommodation, and I was unsure about where to claim my completion certificate. She kindly directed me to the right place for that and suggested that my first order of business should be to enjoy a drink.

I will conclude this chapter of my tale here. In the next part, I plan to share what I did for the remainder of my trip. Then, in a final piece, I intend to summarize my insights on undertaking the Camino and what adjustments I plan to make upon my return.