Mount Olympus, Washington (part 2)

This newsletter marks the continuation of my journey to ascend Mount Olympus in Washington. You can read the first part in my August 10, 2023 newsletter , which covered the first two days.

Day 3 kicked off early at around 4:00 AM with plans to start the hike by 5:00 AM. To escape the loud snoring of a fellow climber, I quietly slipped back to my tent after spending a restless night in the emergency shelter. I wanted to avoid any scolding from the guides for misusing the shelter.

The initial hour consisted of a gentle uphill trail, but that changed dramatically when we reached the moraine. For those unfamiliar, a moraine is essentially a significant pile of debris left behind by a glacier. Descending it was straightforward, but I knew climbing back up later would pose a challenge. It was at this moment when one of our group members decided to turn back and wait for us at the campsite.

At the base of the moraine, we encountered the Blue Glacier. We equipped our boots with crampons, readied our ice axes, and donned our gloves and helmets. This crossing of the glacier was a highlight for me; the sound of water gushing beneath the ice was captivating. We navigated through numerous cracks, crevasses, and holes, many of which appeared to drop into nothingness. When I tossed a rock into one such hole, it seemed to vanish without a sound.

Following our glacier crossing, we took a well-deserved break while the guides dedicated an hour to instructing us on how to tread on ice safely. This training included essential procedures in case someone fell into a crevasse. Afterward, we divided into two rope teams, each consisting of three climbers.

I found myself in the faster of the two teams. This segment of our journey was tough, as we transitioned between rocky and icy terrain on a steep incline. Occasionally, we had to remove our crampons for the rocky patches, adding to the hassle. I find the scraping noise of crampons on rock quite bothersome, but removing and reattaching them took up precious time.

Next, we tackled the 'snow dome,' where we spent a couple of hours. Although it wasn't as steep as the previous segment, it was a long and tiring stretch. The heat was oppressive due to the clear sky and the sun bouncing off the snow. Strangely, bees were buzzing around us, which seemed odd given the lack of plant life up there—just snow and rocks.

After traversing the snow dome, we maneuvered through a rocky passage and ascended a nearly vertical ice wall, only to find ourselves in another prolonged stretch similar to the snow dome. Our guide was pushing us to move swiftly, adding to the difficulty of an already lengthy and hot day.

We then approached another rocky section, which was extensive, steep, and loose, before finally catching sight of the summit.

At this steep snowy area, the guide leading my rope team ascended first and secured a rope for us. The other climber and I took turns climbing up, attached to the rope to ensure our safety. I recalled a climber’s tragic fall on a similar part of Mount Hood, which tragically ended in his death as he slid hundreds of feet into the rocky terrain.

The final stretch of our ascent was the most challenging yet unforgettable. The almost vertical rock required careful maneuvering, but I found adequate handholds and footholds. My guide rated it as class 5.4 in climbing terms; while I typically climb at a class 5.8 level, I usually have specialized climbing shoes instead of my alpine boots. The guide led the way and set up safety ropes. I felt apprehensive but ultimately enjoyed the challenge once I got going. It was the ideal conclusion to an incredible adventure.

After successfully completing some exhilarating class 5 climbing, I reached the summit! The space was rather small and rocky, yet the breathtaking views were worth it. You could clearly spot the Pacific Ocean, Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, and Puget Sound. I was the first in our group to reach the top since the lead guide stayed lower to secure the rope for the remaining climbers. Out of the four clients who continued past the moraine, three made it to the summit, along with both guides. One climber from the other rope team hesitated at the sight of the near-vertical ascent and turned back. The three of us who summited signed the registry, snapped photos of each other, and began our descent.

From the summit, our guides helped lower us down the rocky portion. We simply retraced our path with the same rope teams. Once back at the moraine, we faced the daunting challenge of climbing back up the large pile of loose rocks. My guide and the other client quickly pulled ahead, eventually disappearing from sight. I mistakenly chose to go far too high when I should have traversed across the moraine. As the incline became too steep, I had to come back down. Honestly, I felt quite annoyed that they had left me behind during this grueling section. As I worked my way up and across the moraine, the guide returned to assist me. I voiced my frustration about being abandoned, and although he didn’t apologize, he was quite helpful in getting me back on track, and I sensed he felt some remorse. He was especially kind to me for the remainder of the journey.

All in all, Day 3 turned out to be a grueling 15-hour ordeal spent on our feet from 5 AM until 8 PM. It was undoubtedly among the top ten most strenuous days I’ve ever experienced in mountaineering. But I wasn’t complaining; I seek challenges like this for personal growth. Two of the other guests arrived nearly two hours after I did, making their day a grueling 17 hours. One of them collapsed in the emergency shelter rather than making it back to the tent.

On Days Four and Five, we simply retraced our steps. With lighter backpacks and the descent, we were able to take longer breaks, allowing us to unwind. We reached the 9-mile campground around 2:00 PM on Day Four, which gave us a rare opportunity to relax.

On the morning of Day Five, we set out around 6:00 AM, making our way back to the parking area by noon. We exchanged warm goodbyes and made the usual offers to keep in touch, which I expected would soon be forgotten. My first stop upon returning to civilization was Sully’s Drive In, where I treated myself to a well-earned cheeseburger.

In conclusion, I would like to express my gratitude to my guides, Brian and Adam, from Northwest Mountain Guides . Beyond climbing Mount Olympus, they also lead expeditions on Mount Baker and various mountaineering courses throughout the Pacific Northwest. Compared to other guiding services I’ve encountered, I found their approach to be more relaxed and friendly, rather than strict and overly authoritative. They felt more like companions on the journey than merely hired guides. Even though I got frustrated with one of them on the moraine, I would gladly hire them again. In fact, I’m already considering returning to climb Glacier Peak in the next few years.

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Written by: Michael Shackleford