High Sierra Trail, part 3

In this week’s continuation of my journey along the High Sierra Trail, we’ll focus on the third day. The first two parts took us through the initial two days, while this segment details the hike from Arroyo Junction to Kern Hot Springs.

The weather on day three was the most enjoyable, with a gentle overcast sky and temperatures hovering around 70 degrees. The distance covered was standard for our trek, yet the terrain was largely flat or only slightly downhill, making for a comfortable hike.

After departing from our mosquito-ridden campsite at Arroyo Junction, we trekked beside the river for about a mile before veering left and ascending for an additional mile. Following that climb, we enjoyed some of the easiest hiking of the journey, as the path alternated between flat and mildly downhill, winding through forests and the occasional meadow, like the serene one depicted below.

We opted for a slightly longer route, adding roughly half a mile to our hike, just to pass by the stunning Moraine Lake. This turned out to be a fantastic choice, as the lake was adorned with sandy shores. In the accompanying image, you can see me, looking rather dirty at this point. If I have the opportunity to repeat this adventure, I would plan to camp close to this lake next time.

After enjoying an extended rest at Moraine Lake, we continued our hike until we met up with the main trail. About two miles after rejoining it, the gentle inclines abruptly transitioned into a steep descent.

This downhill trek concluded when we reached the banks of the Kern River, and for the next nine miles, our journey would trace the river’s edge. Nevertheless, our objective was to push on for another couple of miles and set up camp at the Kern Hot Springs.

Walking by the Kern River was once again pleasantly flat. We reached the Kern Hot Springs in the mid-afternoon, which featured a couple of bear lockers and a primitive toilet facility. The image below showcases our campsite, situated right next to a river branch.

The below image captures the hot spring, which is roughly the size of a large bathtub that could easily accommodate two people. The water temperature was very comfortable, around 95 degrees—slightly lower than ideal, yet perfect for an extended soak without feeling overheated. Notice how it’s conveniently located just a short distance from the Kern River.

Throughout the entire day on the trail, we didn’t encounter another soul. Although another group camped nearby at the hot springs, we never observed them utilizing it, so we had the place effectively to ourselves.

Our campsite was positioned on an island nestled between two branches of the Kern River. Close to our camp was this “outhouse,” a term I use loosely as it lacked a roof. While I hesitate to label it a “house,” there’s really no better word for it. This was probably the most picturesque location I’ve ever experienced for a restroom visit.

Taking into account the pleasant, cloudy weather, the gentle terrain, the beautiful setting for camping, the soothing hot springs, and this unique restroom experience, I can confidently say that day three was the most relaxing and enjoyable day of our entire journey.

Written by: Michael Shackleford