Trans Catalina Trail

The Trans Catalina Trail (TCT) spans 37.4 miles, winding through Catalina Island's scenic footpaths and historical dirt roads. During a camping trip to Two Harbors last year, I trekked a seven-mile segment and was captivated by its beauty, so I committed to conquering the entire trail. In late July 2014, my 12-year-old son and I returned to the island with the intention of finishing what we started. This narrative covers our five-day hiking adventure.


Click here Here you can find a full-size hiking map of Catalina. The picture above is simply a scan of my well-used, original map.

Day 1 — Avalon to Blackjack Camp

On the morning of July 21, we boarded the 10:45 AM ferry from San Pedro to Avalon. It had been nearly 30 years since my last visit, and my son was a first-timer, so we took a moment to stroll around and grab some lunch. We also stopped by the Catalina Island Conservancy, located at 125 Claressa Ave., to pick up a hiking map of the island. Since many trail markers are inadequate, having a detailed map is essential. The Conservancy sells a waterproof map for just $3, and they also provide a free hiking permit, which I had previously obtained online.



Given my son’s lightweight backpack, I knew he could comfortably handle only about 7 to 9 miles of hiking each day. In contrast, I’ve noticed that most adults starting in Avalon typically hike a full 14 miles to Blackjack Camp from the trailhead at Pebbly Beach. However, this wasn't feasible for us, especially considering our late start on the first day.

When planning our hike, my first option (Plan A) involved camping for one night at Hermit Gulch camp, which is simply a spacious campsite located on the outskirts of Avalon. This would have required a steep, 1.5-mile diversion off the trail at around the 6.5-mile mark. I suspect this site is frequently occupied by budget-minded tourists.

Instead, I opted for Plan B, which allowed us to bypass the initial 6.5 miles of the trail. We took the Avalon bus to Hermit Gulch to commence our hike. The path from Hermit Gulch to the ridgeline and the main TCT was about 1.5 miles long and quite steep, hot, and filled with switchbacks. Although it's not particularly scenic, reaching the ridgeline rewards you with sweeping views, including the sight of San Clemente Island, which lies behind Catalina.

I confess, I took a shortcut and didn’t officially complete the entire TCT. However, I promise myself that I’ll return to Avalon in the future to hike a loop trail around Avalon and cover the 6.5 miles we skipped. Upon finally joining the official TCT, we followed a dirt road for roughly two miles until we found a left-turning footpath. We continued along this path until we reached Blackjack Camp. This portion of the trail was quite pleasant, featuring hills and valleys in the island's high terrain. During our hike, we encountered a bison. Perhaps I shouldn’t have approached so closely, but I didn’t notice any warning signs regarding this until two days later.
We came across our first bison. In hindsight, getting that close might not have been wise, as a sign I saw the next day suggested maintaining distance. Interestingly, almost everyone mistakenly refers to them as buffalo. True buffalo have larger horns, like the water buffalo, and they aren’t native to North America. source ).

Blackjack Camp is situated roughly 13.5 miles down the TCT. Given our shortcut, we only needed to cover about 8.5 miles from Avalon. After starting around 1:30 PM and moving slowly, we finally reached Blackjack at about 7:30 PM, with only an hour of daylight remaining.

The campground itself is quaint, nestled among shady trees in Catalina's elevated interior. Each campsite is equipped with a picnic table and is conveniently located near a water faucet. The restrooms are maintained and reasonably clean. When we arrived, there was only one other group camping. I noticed a Catalina Island fox curiously hanging around their site, seemingly on the lookout for food.


Our spot at Blackjack Camp.

It's a prudent practice to secure food while camping. The sight of the fox served as a good reminder, so I diligently packed all our food into a separate bag and took it inside the tent at night. I mistakenly left some cleaning supplies on the table, thinking a fox wouldn’t be interested in those. That turned out to be a mistake. When I woke up the next morning, I found our items scattered across a large area. Surprisingly, I managed to recover quite a bit from the bushes. The fox had bitten into my soap and punctured my sunscreen bottle. It also carried off a clean spoon some distance away. The key takeaway is that all items, not just food, need to be secured.

Day 2 — Blackjack Camp to Little Harbor

Being a writer focused on gambling, I made sure to snap a photo of the 'blackjack' signs while there.

Our second day was pleasantly easy, covering just seven miles mostly downhill. The first couple of miles included some gentle ups and downs until we arrived at the Catalina airport, famously known as the Airport in the Sky. This quaint airport features classic California Spanish architecture along with a small gift shop and restaurant. There, we enjoyed a proper meal, a welcome change from our camping rations. However, my son began complaining about his ankle. Thankfully, there is a shuttle service called the Safari Bus that connects the airport to our next stop, Little Harbor. To ensure his comfort, I decided to let my son take the shuttle while I continued on foot.


Airport in the Sky.

This segment of the trail turned out to be the easiest of the whole trek. An unpaved road gradually descended to Little Harbor, which rests at sea level. Since my son had taken the shuttle, I carried his heavier belongings, enabling me to move quickly to Little Harbor. This trail section afforded stunning views of the island's eastern side and the vast Pacific Ocean. It even brought me near a winery that I was surprised to find in such a remote area, especially considering Catalina’s water scarcity.

Upon reaching Little Harbor, we located our campsite and set up for the night. Although Little Harbor boasts a great campground, our site was among the least desirable, perched on a barren hill. Most other campsites were shaded by lush grass and ornamental palm trees. A valuable lesson learned is to book your site early and choose one numbered 12 or lower for a better experience.


Our campsite at Little Harbor. Decent campground but poorly situated.

The campground features a lovely beach located in a sheltered harbor, running water, showers, and twelve appealing grassy campsites, alongside more desolate dirt ones like ours. It truly ranks as one of the most beautiful campgrounds I've encountered, noted for both its stunning views and tranquil atmosphere.

Day 3 - Transitioning from Little Harbor to Parsons Landing

As mentioned earlier in this story, I had previously hiked part of this trail, specifically the section from Little Harbor to Two Harbors. To maximize our island time, we opted to skip this section and instead took the Safari Bus from Little Harbor directly to Two Harbors.

From my recollection, this segment is the most beautiful part of the TCT, following a footpath along the ridgeline on Catalina's western coast. While hiking, a pleasant ocean breeze kept us cool during the hot summer. The panoramic views of the ocean and the Catalina hills were nothing short of breathtaking. Even if one doesn’t complete the entire TCT, I highly recommend hiking this stretch if you happen to be in Two Harbors. You can always take the Safari Bus in one direction and hike back.

To save time, we boarded the 10:30 AM shuttle to Two Harbors. After enjoying a satisfying 'buffalo' burger and a beer at the Harbor Reef restaurant, we got a late start for the Parsons Landing campground. The initial mile is flat, following the isthmus between the two harbors that lent its name to the campsite. However, a sudden right turn sends you on a steep, scorching uphill climb for three miles. At the beginning of our ascent, we met two hikers who were coming from the opposite direction. They warned us about the grueling climb and suggested an easier alternate route on the opposite side of the western part of the island. However, I was determined and declined to take their advice. After already skipping the first 6.5 miles of the trail, I didn’t want to do it again.

This part of the trail presented a steep climb that was mercilessly hot and rather dull. It primarily followed a dirt road with minimal scenic views. We found ourselves rationing water, as we had limited supplies and were extremely thirsty. At least there were glimpses of Santa Barbara Island as we approached the summit, a view I had never experienced before, as it is located too far off the coast to be seen from the mainland. Once we reached the peak, we were greeted by yet another steep descent. Occasionally, sparse bushes offered a fraction of shade, but overall, this segment was entirely exposed to the blazing sun.

Finally arriving at Parsons Landing, I anticipated a quaint and secluded campground. At the time of booking, campsite number one was the last available of the eight. I envisioned a cozy camping environment akin to that of Blackjack camp.


Our spot at Parsons Landing.

I was taken aback to discover around 200 Boy Scouts gathered there. Despite there being only eight campsites, each one was spacious enough to comfortably accommodate 20 to 30 campers. Being the sole non-Scout in attendance made me feel quite out of place, especially since I had been a Boy Scout in my youth. Several adult leaders observed me with a hint of skepticism, yet they kindly asked about my presence. Thankfully, our campsite, number one, was located at the far end and nestled in a secluded cove, giving me some much-needed privacy; however, I still felt somewhat restricted in my little corner, avoiding any more glares or curious inquiries. As an interesting coincidence, my son spotted a few classmates from school at campsite number 2. What are the chances? I encouraged him to go play with them, but they were engrossed in various Scouting activities, which included digging sleeping pits in the sand.


Gazing down the shore towards Parsons Landing.

Day 4 — From Parsons Landing to Starlight Beach and back again.

The following day brought mixed feelings as I watched a fleet of Scouts paddling away in canoes, heading back to their main Boy Scout camp at Emerald Bay, further down the beach. Although it would have been nice to have the beach pretty much to ourselves, I was eager to set off early for the day's hike while the weather was still pleasantly cool. I had been informed that a new group of Scouts would be arriving later that afternoon, so I wouldn't have the luxury of a few quiet hours in between.


Nearing the end!

The hike from Parsons Landing to the trail's end at Starlight Beach resembled the previous day's path but had more of an M-shaped climb and offered improved views. I also appreciated the lighter load, having left most of our gear back at Parsons. Yet, this section remained challenging due to its steep and hot terrain. This day marked our longest hike, covering approximately 4.5 miles each way, totaling a round trip of about 9 miles.

Upon finally arriving at Starlight Beach, I must admit it was a bit of an anticlimax. Starlight Beach is a small, rocky stretch of shore that receives harsh sunlight. On the brighter side, I did get to enjoy a swim in the ocean, while a curious seal kept a close watch on me from the water. Afterward, we retraced our steps back to Parsons.
How can you truly enjoy the starlight when access is limited to 'day use only'?

From my vantage point on the hills overlooking Parsons, I spotted a fleet of Boy Scout canoes and felt relieved to see that about half of the Scouts were making their way back to the Emerald Bay camp on foot. When we arrived, there were still roughly 100 Scouts, which felt pleasantly less crowded than the previous day. I spent the rest of the day lounging around, swimming, taking a nap, and enjoying a book. The evening was too breezy to light a campfire.


Parsons Landing from hill above.

It's worth noting that unlike other campgrounds, Parsons does not have running water. I was allocated a quota of 2.5 gallons stored in a locker. I obtained the key for this locker at the visitor services office in Two Harbors. They also provided a key for a second locker for additional water and firewood, but there was an extra fee for using it. However, we managed to survive on the initial 2.5 gallons and a few smaller bottles that the Boy Scouts had left on the beach. Also, I would like to point out that although I paid for the campsite on a daily basis, we were only entitled to that same 2.5 gallons of water and one bundle of firewood regardless of our duration of stay. It would have been fairer to allocate a specific amount based on the number of days spent there.

Day 5 — Parsons Landing to Two Harbors

After the grueling hike on Day 3, there was no way I was going to repeat that section. The previous year during another camping trip, we had rented bicycles and rode along the dirt road from Two Harbors, passing numerous yacht clubs and summer camps, to reach the primary Boy Scout camp at Emerald Bay. The distance is comparable at about 7 miles, similar to taking the TCT from Parsons Landing. So, we opted for the flat and scenic coastal route back to Two Harbors. Once we arrived, we had about five hours to spare before our scheduled ferry ride back to the mainland, prompting me to switch to an earlier ferry for an additional fee of $10.


Who can resist snapping a picture of a bison? I came across one grazing near Parsons Landing.

In summary, the TCT has its advantages and disadvantages. Despite being so close to Los Angeles, we barely encountered any other backpackers on the trail, just a couple of small groups hiking sections. However, we did see large groups of non-backpackers at every campground, with the exception of Blackjack. As noted, we hiked the trail in late July, and it was sweltering hot, coming from someone who has spent the last 13 years living in Las Vegas. If given a chance, I would strongly advise hiking during a cooler season.


Typical scene on the TCT.

Looking back, I would suggest most hikers consider skipping the section west of Two Harbors entirely. Starting at Avalon and concluding at Two Harbors, or the other way around, is a better option, as both cities are well-connected by the Catalina Express ferry. If you find that you truly enjoyed the experience, you can always return at a later time to explore the western part. Should you pursue the west end, I highly recommend taking the coastal route one way, as we did.

I also want to stress the importance of bringing a map of Catalina Island from the Catalina Island Conservancy. The TCT varies significantly in terms of trail marking, with some areas being very well marked and others quite poorly. Generally, the further west you venture, the more difficult the signage becomes. You will encounter many forks in the path and roads lacking any indicators at all. Additionally, there may be lengthy stretches without any trail markers, leaving you to question if you are on the correct route. While there is a milepost every mile, they tend to be small and can easily be overlooked. Perhaps I second-guess myself too much, but I found that I needed to consult the map at least once every hour. Lastly, when in doubt, always opt for the more frequently traveled trail.

Although the TCT has its ups and downs, both literally and metaphorically, I am grateful I embarked on this journey and felt as though I truly experienced Catalina.

Written by: Michael Shackleford