Alaska Vacation Part 3

by the Wizard2010-07-12 17:00:22 (edited 2010-07-21 13:18)

June 16-18 - Chena Hot Springs

After visiting Denali National Park, we made our way towards the northeast to Chena Hot Springs Resort . This cozy little spot provides a range of activities, particularly with the option of relaxing in hot springs. We opted for a two-bedroom \"family suite\" located in a four-unit building that had views of the hot springs. The ambiance was homely, resembling more of an apartment rather than a traditional hotel suite. Below are some highlights of our experiences.

Hot Springs

After navigating through a changing room adorned with strict showering regulations in both English and Japanese, guests are presented with two choices for the hot springs. The first is a family-friendly indoor pool that is kept at a comfortably warm temperature. The second option is an outdoor lake dedicated to adults only. Although it seems to be constructed, they succeeded in giving it a natural look. The water temperature in the lake varied depending on where you were; some spots felt like a warm bathtub while others were a little too hot to enjoy. There's certainly a place and temperature suitable for everyone. The lake is encircled by areas designated for cooling, since the geothermal water emerges from the earth at a scorching 156 degrees. Thus, it must be cooled down to ensure it's safe for soaking.

Ice Museum

The ice museum welcomes visitors at specific times throughout the day for guided tours. Inside, you'll find around a dozen unique ice sculptures. When we reached the ice rendition of Sarah Palin, the guide humorously remarked on its accuracy in both size and chill. The ice bar within served apple martinis in ice glasses priced at $15, which I chose not to indulge in.

Geothermal Tour

The resort is situated on a rich geothermal energy site. They provide complimentary tours of their power plant, where they generate energy to run the resort and even produce excess energy to sell to the state of Alaska. For those curious about the process, their website website gives a detailed explanation that far exceeds anything I could say. Following the power plant tour, guests move on to the greenhouse, where they cultivate their own herbs and vegetables for use in the resort's restaurant.

Restaurant

Dining options at the resort were limited to one establishment. Initially, I feared that the lack of competition would result in bland or overpriced food, but I was pleasantly surprised. Each dish I sampled was exceptional, exhibiting a fresh, homemade quality. The prices were also fairly reasonable considering Alaska's typical costs.

Miscellaneous

A small lake on-site offers canoe rentals. We took advantage of this for about an hour, though paddling back and forth became somewhat tedious. My two older children enjoyed horseback riding during our stay. One morning, I embarked on a five-mile trek along a muddy dirt path. There were plenty of hiking trails available, but time constraints only allowed for one. We didn’t manage to try the ATV rides or dog sledding, which were offered during the summer season.

In summary, Chena Hot Springs Resort is an excellent destination for families seeking a tranquil getaway in nature. However, if you’re after an exciting, action-packed Alaskan adventure, you might find the pace here a bit too slow. The winter season sees a surge in visitors, especially Japanese tourists drawn by the northern lights, and I would love to return to experience that.

June 18-20 - Fairbanks

After spending five days in quaint towns, it was nice to anticipate the conveniences available in Alaska's second-largest city. We stayed at the Best Western Chena River Inn near the airport, which was quite pleasant with a better-than-average continental breakfast and a business center that featured a computer with Internet access. The absence of a swimming pool was a drawback though.

If you're traveling through Fairbanks, it’s worth spending a day or two there, but I wouldn’t prioritize it during your Alaskan adventure. Here are some things we experienced while in Fairbanks.

Downtown

The downtown area of Fairbanks felt somewhat underwhelming. It appeared to be affected by the trend of middle-class migration towards suburban areas, a situation similar to that of many American cities. However, it does provide access to a beautiful riverfront with ample park space. We enjoyed lunch at Soapy Smith's Old Tyme Restaurant, which had walls adorned with typical Alaskan tourist memorabilia like snowshoes and antlers. During our meal, the owner shared stories about his family's role in Alaskan politics and the restaurant's history, mentioning he was the grandson of a former state governor. The overall vibe of the restaurant was slightly kitschy but still enjoyable, and the food was more than satisfactory.

If you find yourself in downtown Fairbanks, don’t miss a visit to the Morris Thomson Cultural & Visitor Center. They provide a wealth of tourist brochures and have a very friendly staff eager to assist with any questions. The large, modern building showcases dioramas representing life in northern Alaska through the different seasons. I was informed that a film about the strong and resilient women of Alaska was to be screened shortly. I guided my family into the theater, hoping my 12-year-old daughter would find it motivating. However, the film turned out to be an old documentary from the sixties featuring elderly Indigenous people singing in their native tongue about whale hunting. After several minutes of this, boredom set in, and we discreetly departed the theater. Given the impressive building, updating their film selection would certainly enhance the experience.

Pioneer Park

Without a doubt, Pioneer Park is a fantastic family destination. It blends a public park feel with moderately priced attractions like a train ride around the area, an airplane museum, and a mini-golf course. The park boasts an extensive collection of authentic log cabins that have been relocated there; some are functioning businesses while others remain open to the public. My son and I ventured into a cabin that housed a freezer mimicking the experience of -40-degree temperatures, allowing guests to feel what winter in Fairbanks is truly like. That day, it was actually -50 degrees outside. We gave it a try and found it surprisingly tolerable. Having endured many days with temperatures below 20 degrees back in Baltimore, I couldn’t discern much of a difference. Perhaps it was all mental; I expected to be instantaneously frozen, but instead, I actually felt somewhat warm! The woman running the exhibit was exceptionally kind and spoke passionately about various aspects of life in Alaska. She noted that the long winter darkness impacts people in Fairbanks much more severely than the cold itself.

Along the edge of the park was the Alaska Salmon Bake . Skipping a traditional Salmon Bake while in Alaska would be akin to visiting Vegas and not indulging in a buffet. Aside from the one in Denali, Salmon Bakes typically serve a medley of dishes centered around salmon grilled over an open flame, alongside other homemade-style dishes like baked beans and potato salad. The one at Pioneer Park is quite sizable and somewhat tourist-oriented, but still delicious and definitely worth experiencing. I recommend pairing it with a bottle of wine. We enjoyed our meals so much we returned twice.

Museum of the North

This spacious, contemporary building sits on the campus of the University of Alaska. Its modern design feels somewhat out of place in Fairbanks, but that didn't detract from my experience. Inside, the exhibits are first-rate, offering a wealth of information about Alaska's wildlife and Native American history. Additionally, there's a large theater with stadium seating that screens three different films in rotation. I watched one that depicted life in Fairbanks and another showcasing the northern lights, which I have always wanted to see. Central Alaska is known to be a prime location for catching the northern lights.

Alaska Pipe Line

Although we later traveled along the Alaska Pipeline for 360 miles, I was initially worried I might not get to see it, as I was informed it was primarily buried underground south of Fairbanks. As it turns out, that information was only partially correct; I spotted the pipeline along the road about 10% of the time. Unsure of my chances, I drove a bit north of the city center specifically to see one section that was probably purposely exposed for tourists to photograph and purchase souvenirs from the gift shop. If you're in Fairbanks and have limited opportunities to view the pipeline, it's definitely worth the stop.

In my view, the Alaska Pipeline represents one of America's remarkable engineering triumphs, which made it a source of pride to witness for the first time. A large sign across the highway declared, \"Canada my ass, it’s Alaska's gas,\" reflecting the ongoing debates regarding proposals to establish a second pipeline for natural gas, with one being a short extension to a Canadian pipeline, and the other a longer route mirroring the existing oil pipeline.

Midnight Sun 10K Fun Run

Interestingly, I planned this trip back in March with the knowledge of a Midnight Sun 10K Fun Run taking place on June 19. It piqued my curiosity, and since I consider myself a decent runner, I signed up and tailored the itinerary around being in Fairbanks for the event.

When folks mention the \"midnight sun,\" they're usually referring to the phenomenon where the sun does not set. This can only happen in specific locations above the Arctic Circle or below the Antarctic Circle at certain times of the year. Fairbanks is still around 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle, so even on the longest day, the sun does set. However, as I noted in part 2 of my Alaska chronicles, it stays quite bright during the few hours between sunset and sunrise. According to a newspaper article I came across, on that particular day in Fairbanks, the sun set at 12:46 AM and rose again at 2:57 AM, granting us a total of 21 hours and 49 minutes of daylight—though it still falls two days short of the \"longest day of the year.\" Hence, the title of the fun run was somewhat misleading, but it hardly mattered.

Upon arriving at the starting line, I had plenty of time to spare (I tend to arrive early). Given Fairbanks' population of about 100,000, the turnout was impressive. The Fairbanks News Miner estimated that roughly 4,000 participants joined, including about 100 in costume. My favorite outfits were those of Thing 1 and Thing 2 from Dr. Seuss's Cat in the Hat. As we waited, a local radio station even conducted a live broadcast. Everyone seemed to enjoy the playful Sarah Palin jokes they shared.

The race commenced at 10:30 PM, and the conditions could not have been better for running. Having trained in the scorching heat of Las Vegas, I found the mild temperatures in the low seventies to be absolutely delightful. The course primarily wound through quiet neighborhoods, and the turnout of onlookers was impressive. Their enthusiasm really enhanced the experience and pushed me to increase my speed.

As I approached the finish line, I realized that I had played it too safe with my pace and could have pushed myself harder. With a surge of determination, I decided to use the last of my energy to overtake as many competitors as I could in the final half mile. Crossing the finish line filled me with exhilaration, making it hard to calm down afterward. It reminded me of a scene from the movie Friday Night Lights, where a player celebrates after scoring his first touchdown and can't bear to part with the ball.

Per the official race results, I secured 23rd place out of 83 competitors in the 45-49 age group, finishing with a time of 53:45. Overall, I landed in 340th position among 1341 participants. This means I outperformed 75% of the men and an impressive 93% of the women — not too shabby! Interestingly, they mistakenly spelled my name wrong by inserting a 'C' between the 'S' and 'H' in Shack, a common error it seems. There's also a chart showing the distribution of finishing times, revealing a notable spike at 1 hour and 35 minutes, which might indicate a group of runners maintaining a comfortable jogging pace. If you go faster, you're racing; any slower, and you're just walking.

After the race wrapped up, I heard the DJs from a local radio station announcing live coverage, mentioning that Governor Sean Parnell was at the gazebo nearby. Since the race concluded at Pioneer Park, a place I had visited a couple of times before, I was quite familiar with the area. I was fortunate to be close enough to swing by and meet the man who took over for Sarah. There were several men in suits standing around, and I wasn't sure who the governor was. I subtly inquired with a woman at the gazebo, who introduced herself as the governor's wife and then introduced the governor. They were both very approachable, especially Alaska's first lady, who engaged in conversation asking me about my stay and recommending activities in Fairbanks. She seemed particularly curious if I traveled all this way for the run, to which I responded that my trip was centered around this event. It was thrilling for me, as I had never met a sitting governor before. I once encountered the former governor of California in 1984 when he was still a U.S. Senator. Pete Wilson In my opinion, Fairbanks offers a friendly community and seems like a lovely place to live, particularly during the summer months. However, it lacks the dramatic landscapes seen in other Alaskan regions since it's relatively flat. While there aren't many attractions for tourists, it can be refreshing to escape the bustling crowds that flood more popular destinations. If you're fortunate enough to be there during the Fun Run weekend, I highly recommend making it a part of your experience.

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• Part 1 : Anchorage and Talkeetna.
• Part 2 : Denali National Park.
• Part 4 : Valdez.

Written by: Michael Shackleford